PUDDINGS, CUSTARDS AND FLANS
From Publishers Weekly
If a cookbook dedicated to a humble "nursery food" like pudding at first appears limited in scope, food journalist Zimmerman skillfully rises above it in this small but significant work. With recipes for not only puddings but custards, flans and savory puddings (which are not sweet desserts but scrumptiously rich side dishes), her book is a pleasure to read, a reflection of the author's playful admission that "when I first thought about writing a book devoted to puddings, I had no idea just what a delicious mess I was getting myself into." Puddings are among the oldest of comfort foods,having first secured a place in England, and Zimmerman pays respectful homage to time-tested British classics like Mrs. Donaldson's English rice pudding, Christmas plum pudding and queen of lemon meringue pudding while also introducing altogether original concoctions (chocolate praline croissant pudding, margarita sabayon, mascarpone cheesecake flan). She has thoughtfully researched and provided recipes for Jean's potato-carrot kugel, green corn tamale pudding and brie and crab strata, and has unraveled the mysteries of steamed puddings and finicky shirred custards. Offered too are techniques for cooling and storing delicate custards, fixing curdled custards and caramelizing sugar.